FPV drone

Parts list:

• Pyrodrone Source One V5 5 Inch Drone Frame
• SpeedyBee F405 V4 FLIGHT CONTROLLER - 30x30mm
• SpeedyBee 60A 3-6S BLHeli_S 4-in-1 ESC - 30x30mm
• Emax ECO II Series 2207-1700KV Motor x4
• Tattu R-Line Version 5.0 1200mAh 22.2V 150C 6S1P Lipo Battery - XT60 x2
• Walksnail Moonlight VTX
• Walksnail Moonlight Camera + ND8 filter
• Avatar V2 antenna x2
• Walksnail Avatar HD Goggles X
• RP4TD ExpressLRS 2.4GHz True Diversity Receiver
• Radiomaster Pocket Controller
• 35V 1,000uF Low ESR Capacitor
• Various M3 screw/nuts/washers
• Micro SD card 128Gb x2, 4Gb x1
• Lots and lots of miscellaneous 3D printed parts with TPU

I got into FPV drone this summer as I've always thought these things are pretty neat. I built it entirely myself with the parts that I chose above. I went with a 5-inch build since it gives me the option to carry a GoPro while still keeping the drone agile enough for freestyle acrobatics. For power, I chose a 6S battery paired with 1700KV 2207 motors—a good balance between efficiency and punch, not full-on racing but still sporty enough for quick moves while giving me more airtime. For the video system, I wanted digital for the better image quality, so I went with the Walksnail system. It’s more affordable and has broader compatibility than DJI, plus it still leaves me the option to go analog later if I decide to build a smaller whoop. On the radio link side, I went with ELRS with a True Diversity receiver. Unlike a single-antenna receiver, True Diversity has two antennas and two independent RF chains, meaning more reliable connection and less chance of signal dropouts during flight. Some of the tools I used are the 3D printer for various TPU parts that fits onto the frame to hold the many electronics and wires, soldering iron for soldering the connections between power cables, motor control as well as transmitter and receiver cables for both the VTX and ELRS. Tweezers proved to be almost essential for navigating the tight spaces. I had my multi meter and power supply for some electrical testing and a LiPo charger for charging the batteries. I also built a simple smoke stopper using a 12V 27W automotive light bulb with XT60 connectors. The bulb lights up if there’s a short in the circuit and also acts as a current limiter, which helps protect the electronics from frying. I used this the first time I plugged in the battery after soldering all the electronics together. It's best to be careful since the drone frame is made from carbon fiber which conducts electricity and can easily cause shorts if there is any contact.

Drone works pretty well and is much more responsive than I thought, next step is probably improve the PID tuning, especially for the throttle response and sensitivity. I also bought some nice LED to go on the arms if I ever get to them. Unfortunitly I'll also have to do some fixing as I ran it into a tree the other day, no extensive dagamge was done to the frame or electronics, however the LiPo battery did get swollen and all the propellers will need replacing(one even snapped clean off), C'est la vie.